This allowed for a true connection between the engine and rear wheels at high speed, which increased fuel economy. If you feel that th e engine seems like it is turning faster than it should be while going down the highway, than you could have an issue with torque converter refusing to lock up. The first one that there is a combined switch down there that controls the cruise control, brake lights, and lockup converter.
Or, you can unplug one and see when if your brake lights still work. You can do that with a test light. All of these suggestions should cost you less than twenty bucks, and more than likely will be able to fix this problem. The R4 uses both a traditional mechanical speedometer cable, like you might find in an older muscle car. Alternatively, they also used a variable speed sensor.
If you can safely get under the car and take a look around the tail-shaft. If the cable coming out of it is thick with a big circle that screws into it, you have a mechanical speedometer. Try replacing the speedometer cable.
Unless the speedometer itself is broken, this will most likely fix it. If there is a wiring harness that plugs into something back there, you have a VSS. This is either low transmission fluid or a problem that is going to get end with you at the transmission shop, and no more college savings for your kids. Have you noticed the transmission puking fluid when you park it? If so you need to fill it back up and find where the transmission is leaking and fix it.
Here is a whole post on low transmission fluid that may help.
Stuck in forward gear, won't shift into neutral or reverse
This is often a sign of a bad governor gear, or a TV cable that is not returning back when you let off of the throttle. Here is a pretty good resource on this subject. This is a pretty advanced problem for a shade tree mechanic and may be another one that you leave up to the professionals. No matter what your level of confidence with your mechanical skills, there are many R4 transmission problems that you can fix all on your own. Good luck and thanks for reading.
Fell out of my truck going at 30mph put new one in. Now the. Want happen to trans. TV cable is adjusted correctly. Any thoughts? Monster transmission rebuild kit. Almost miles on it. Conclusion No matter what your level of confidence with your mechanical skills, there are many R4 transmission problems that you can fix all on your own.Got car issues? Well, we've got the answers! Easily search thousands of entries to find exactly what you're looking for.
Need advice on a dealing with a blown head gasket? Oil Leak? Cracked block or leaking radiator? Be sure to leave a comment or question on anything that may interest you.
You can also send an email to our pro for direct assistance! There can always be hidden problems lurking that are difficult to diagnose in the few minutes you have while you are looking at the car.
The same can be true of the car that you are currently driving. The first step in learning how to listen to your transmission is true for any component of any car.
Start by driving a few miles on the highway, and a few miles around town with the radio off and no one else in the car.
Shifters, Automatic Transmission
These quality miles with your vehicle will allow you to hear what a healthy and happy car sounds like. Try opening the windows and listen to the sounds your car makes as you idle, turn corners, accelerate, brake, turn on and off different equipment like the air conditioning or headlights. Also, watch the gauges your car has to see where they read during normal operation.
One of the first signs of transmission problems is when your transmission shifts hard. When your transmission slams into gear it can be a sign of abnormal pressures, worn components or even a low fluid level. Start by checking your transmission fluid level and condition on the dipstick.
If you find a low fluid level, ad BlueDevil Transmission Sealer and top off the fluid to get things back to normal. Similarly, slow and hanging shifts can be a sign of worn component or abnormal pressures in your transmission. Whining and humming are transmission noises that suggest two different problems but are often hard to distinguish. Whining indicates a problem with the transmission fluid pump and could be due to a low level or a failing pump.
Humming is usually an indication that there is bearing going bad in your transmission, but can also be confused with carrier bearings and wheel bearings so make sure to check all those bearings before jumping to conclusions. Clunking or rattling in any system in your car usually means something either has or will soon fail catastrophically.
The symptoms of a failing transmission usually follow after you start to see some of the signs of failure. Similarly, harsh shifts can wear out clutches and bands and lead to slipping.
Eventually, this slipping leads to your transmission not going into gear at all and you can no longer drive your car. The biggest problem you can have with a transmission is excessive slipping or it not going into gear, either forward or reverse. Unfortunately, to find out for sure that your transmission has gone out, you need to remove the transmission and open it up to inspect it for wear and damage.
The biggest sign of a bad transmission is its track record. Resources like www. The quickest way to ruin your transmission is by running it with a low fluid level. Besides keeping a full fluid level, avoiding shifts at heavy throttle or shifting while your vehicle is moving can help your transmission from wearing out prematurely.
Thanks for your question about the humming noise in your transmission. Humming noises are usually an indication of a bad bearing. If you are sure the noise is coming from your gear box and happens even in neutral, then the output shaft bearing in your transmission may be starting to go bad.
700R4 Transmission Troubleshooting
This usually only happens if your vehicle has a lot of miles on it. The other possibility is that one of CV joints is going bad if you have a front wheel drive car, or one of the universal joints or the carrier barring is going bad if you have a rear wheel drive car. My truck the other night seemed like in was driving itself my fluid levels are fine and I also hear a whinny noise from somewhere what could it be.
Thanks for your question about your truck.Have not driven in a week or so, had to replace radiator because of leak, replaced radiator yesterday and it works fine, Fluids are fine. I have no idea. Please help, because I have no money to spare. There were coolant lines Transmission level is fine, maybe slightly too much. Well that sounds like quite the pickle. It sounds like an issue with the tranny coolant lines to me too.
Nothing else but the rad was worked on? Did you plug the lines after dis-connecting and maybe left something in there.
Trannies run on low pressure and the fluid may be blocked. No flow, no go. If you did plug them it might be a good idea to disconnect both ends of each tube and blow them out with air, ensure no forgein material gets blow into the tranny. Blow out the new rad and ensure there is communication between the two ports you are connected to?
New cooling coil may be pinched. I did not plug the lines. Nothing but the rad was worked on. Do you think fludhing the trans system, and adding new fluid would help? Or could it be something simpler? I can't figure it out. I appreciate the help.Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how! Send Private Topic View Profile. Execution time: 0. All times are GMT Pacific. Current time is PM Top. Attach Photos to Posts. Contact Us.
My Cookies. Frequently Asked Questions. Forum Rules.
4l80e only want to go forward even in neutral!
Username Post: No forward gears in r4? Let me start off by giving you a little back story. I got a r4 trans that was told was good. So I changed some seals and filter on it Pump seal, rear seal, servo seals, speedo, etc.
I installed the trans and it only has reverse. It has no forward gears at all. Is there anything I should try before I yank this thing out again and send it in for a rebuild?
That "change of tone" says that it's engaging, but no forward clutch, it's seal or sprague to make it grab the load. Allan Lifelong GM automatic transmission specialist. I'm mechanically inclined, I've built engines before, with that said, how hard would it be for me to rebuild it? This really is a "stretch of faith", but it lives under the round cover at the rear of the tranny under the bail.
Oh, and as far as you being able to do it yourself, I cannot judge. I've been repairing these Chevy automatics since long before I started to shave some 55 years or thereabouts and everything seems "easy" to me.
Someone else may not think so. I got another trans. This was has a fresh rebuild. If I apply any throttle it quickly shifts out of OD. It seems like I can only get into OD if I am coasting. I tried adjusting the TV cable and it helped a little bit, but not much. Major part of the shifting is done by the governor. I would change that and go from there.Automotive Forums. I changed the fluid and filter.
Sounds like you need a new valve body, if the linkages are working fine, but the truck still isn't actually in the gear you've selected then the 'box isn't actually shifting into the right gear. I have a dodge ram 5. Anyways, Ive been trying to get it working for a long time now.
It didnt work? Reverse drives forward. Neutral will go forward. I rechecked my clutches and steels and they are all brand new and they are not being damage at all. Maybe it cloged up my valve body! The rear clutch inside the trans is smoked,it welds itself together. How many rear Clutch plates and steels are in the rear clutch plate? Just curious I want to make sure everything was completed in my rebuild on my transmission with the same exact problem. I have one note for you!
The haynes book states that the transmission BANDS are to be adjust every 30k miles during the transmission service. If the bands are not adjusted. They can cause problems such as this and they can lock up the clutch plates and grind up the clutch pack fast.
You'll probably snap a transmission band with that much power locked on all 4 tires! I did not find any large metal pieces. Since my trans was completely rebuilt already.
I might need a new valve body now! I did not check the servos.It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt.
It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine. I have never seen this! You need a new transmission. Transman might know the most likely cause on your particular transmission but it seems quite certain that a forward clutch is dragging or a planetary has seized.
Well, I doubt if you need a new transmission. You turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine. How did you dertermine that the thing was not in gear?? With the neutral safety switch on the column it certainly is possible that the problem is in the linkage to the transmission. Maybe the OP will try to push the truck with the lever at Park and post back. I tried to push the vehicle with it in park and it did not move.
I slowly shifted into reverse and it tried to move forward, then neutral and it moved forward. Each drive gear was the same. I then tried to start the vehicle in both reverse and drive and nothing happened. However, it did start when I had it in neutral and it went forward. I will re-check the linkage tonight.
I could not see any visable damage when I looked at it yesterday. Nope… It sounds like the transmission overheated and welded some clutch plates together. More than likely the forward clutches.
Does the fluid look dark?? Definitely an internal issue. Especially if the linkages are fine. I am having this exact same issue right now.
Parks works grate. Car only starts when in park and in neutral. However, unless im braking in neutral the car will move forward. My shifter linkage is fine.
Im curious if you ever determined what your issue was? I agree with JayWB, it sounds like the linkage is not right. Thanks for all of the inputs. The linkage is fine. The fluid is burnt. Thanks for the help. There are several possible causes and all require a complete tear down and rebuild.Local Knowledge.
Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread.If Reverse Gear Not Engage
Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced….
Hey everyone just wanted to see if anyone has had a similar problem and can help in any way. I have a mercury hp and recently while using it the gears stuck in forward.
When I move the throttle to reverse the boat revs and goes forward. And when I start the boat it starts in forward with the prop spinning instead of in neutral.
I replaced the shifting cables and checked the throttle housing where that is all ok, and I was informed it could be something in the lower unit not being aligned, but when I drop the lower I cant find what it is. Any advice would be appreciated, CJ. May be as simple as a missing washer on the shift cable linkage, that happened to me once. Jan 7, 7, 7, Socal Name john Boat 24 ft grady white. Shift the motors linkage not the control box.
That will tell you if its control box or adjustment related. Your shift rod connection s came apart when the engine was in forward gear. You are moving the cable but it isn't connected to the shift rod inside the engine cowling. That's why it's starting in forward gear on you.
Re-attach the shift rod to the cable shift assembly. Pescador Paul I've posted enough I should edit this section. I had a pair of two stroke Yamaha 's for many years.